• Diamond tip scribe or carbide steel point
• Scraper
• Burnisher

• The metal (preferably roofing copper) plate is thoroughly sanded with an electric finishing sander and 320 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper and the sanding residue removed with a clean rag.  
• Bevel the plate if the plate is thicker than roofing copper.

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• Work spontaneously and directly on plate (reversal)
• Sketch with crayon (reversal)
• Transfer impression from a soft pencil drawing
• Trace image with carbon paper

• The drypoint needle does not remove metal.
• Hold the needle at different angles can create lines with different intensity andcharacter.  The angle of the needle determines the thickness and tonality of the line.  Note: Too great of an angle produces a weak burr that will not withstanding printing.
• The tonal effect:
• The newer the burr, the richer and darker the print.
• When the value is too light, rework the drawing.
• When the value is too dark,scrape to reduce the value.
• Avoid reworking a signle line. The expressive quality and freshness of the line can be easily destroyed.

• Use Graphic Chemical Etching Black #514 (Medium soft ink thinned with light plate oil).
• Spread ink gently, don't scrub.
• Wipe gently with a flat bottomed tarlatan ball.  Leave desired plate tone.  DO NOT OVERWIPE.
• Use good heavy dampend paper such as Arches Cover or German Etching.

• When working with colored ink, a solution of 50% Future and 50% water can be used to coat the entire plate. This thin coating does not block up even very fine marks yet serves as an effective barrier for the inks from contamination by the metal 

• For printing, more complete info see Printing Handout

• Vegetable oil (canola) , degrease with magnesium carbonate 

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